Tag: perfecto jacket

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Schott 618HH Horsehide Perfecto

My most recent jacket acquisition is the Schott 618HH aka the Classic Horsehide Perfecto. I do also have a couple other jacket acquisitions before this one I’d like to share in the coming posts.

Yesterday, I drove down to the Schott Los Angeles Flagship Store in the Fairfax neighborhood. The last time I was there was about 8 years ago when I was ecstatic to pick up the coveted Schott x 3sixteen Arabica Perfecto drop in my size. The store had then recently moved location from the Americana in Glendale where I frequently visited before that. While the store’s current location is slightly further from my current location, the Fairfax neighborhood is very vibrant with a lot of cool menswear shops to check out.

I am 5’10, with a 41 inch shirtless chest, and 165 lbs. I used the Schott NYC website size calculator to input my measurements. It suggested size 42 for a “slim fit” and size 44 for a “regular fit”. The size 42 felt very tight in the chest and shoulders and was pulling in chest region. The size 44 fit well in those areas, although slightly boxier in body region. Because it’s a jacket, I went with the size 44 to accomodate potential layering, any future weight gain, and just practical comfort. The store associates I asked opinions for felt like size 42 or 44 could work.

My initial impressions of the jacket is that the horsehide leather is really stiff, heavy, shiny, and has a lot of grain. Currently, the only other Schott jacket I have are sized based on the 519 cut, so I’ll provide some brief comparisons between the Schott 618 and 519.

The Schott 519 is a medium weight, soft waxy pebbled ready-to-wear cowhide leather with a longer body length for fashion, open sleeve cuffs, and ‘One Star’ on the epaulets. My size M 519 jacket weighs 4.62 lbs. The pit to pit measures 22 inches. The front length is 27 inches, and the back length is 25 inches. It has a belt snap to prevent the buckle from flopping around when unbuckled. The epaulets are rounded off.

The Schott 618HH is a heavy weight, rigid, shiny horsehide leather, with a shorter classic body length, underarm footballs, and zippered sleeve cuffs. The size 44 jacket weighs 5.46 lbs. The underarm football gussets make the arm movements reaching in front and across the body feel natural and comfortable. I feel like it’s a practical addition, and the gussets visually don’t add much bulk if you have muscular arms. The front length measures 25.5 inches, and the back length is 25 inches. Interestingly, the set of zippered handwarmer pockets and zippered chest pocket directions are opposite of the Schott 519 – they are closed in the downward position and open upwards, while on the 519 it is the other way around.

My current style prefers the classic shorter length of the Schott 618 jacket (~25 inches) to pair the higher rise. wider pants I now frequently to wear. When I purchased the Schott 519, my style was more slim tapered pants with longer, untucked shirts, and the extended body length (~27 inches) of the jacket suited accordingly.

I am currently breaking in the 618 jacket at home wearing it while lounging around. The sleeves are starting to form creases and softening up.  I’ll post updates in the future!

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Schott x 3sixteen Arabica Cowhide @ 19 Months

I haven’t worn this piece much since my last update 05/2018 Schott x 3sixteen Perfecto Arabica Cowhide Review, but leather still ages hanging on a clothing rack!

I was reminded of my leather jackets after talking with some old friends who have retired interest in clothing from the Styleforum days before Instagram. Back before I found a comfortable style, I did partake in the whole Temple of Jawnz (TOJ) leather jacket fiasco in 2012/2013. There’s a good summary on what happened over here.

People got too crazy obsessing over 1cm measurements with a MTM offering especially being behind a monitor on the internet. With MTM, the resale value really diminishes, and people don’t measure used garments to a consistent standard. I’m glad I fit in an “off-the-rack” size.

The Schott x 3sixteen Perfecto really encapsulates my more recent way of purchases. Nice stuff made from people I can hang with. It just so happened a few before this iteration jacket was released, both Schott NYC and 3sixteen opened stores in LA.

I took these handful of pics inside the bedroom messing around with my somewhat recently acquired Godox AD200 flash and Glow EZ Lock Deep Parabolic Softbox (28 in). Man.. this pairing of such a workhorse. The soft box is really easy to setup and really amazing for the price. From my past pics, I emphasized using natural light and “working with what ya got” but I figured I tried something different especially in a controlled environment.

Anyways, it’s getting too hot over here to wear nice clothes. Hope to be more active on my blog soon!

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Schott x 3sixteen Perfecto Arabica Cowhide Review

Updated 5/1/2018 with new pics at the bottom
Last year, 3sixteen collaborated with Schott NYC to create a monochrome Perfecto. Two great brands that I love came together to design a limited piece that would embody aesthetics from both brands. When last year’s collaboration was announced, I had already owned a Schott NYC 519 Perfecto in Black. The monochrome detail and removal of the belt did not attract me. I initially purchased my Schott 519 because it included contrasting buttons, one star shoulder epaulets, and a flashy belt. To me, that was the epitome of a Perfecto. You buy a Perfecto because you want the Perfecto details. I was able to try on last year’s collab at Schott NYC at the Americana in a size L (I wear a size M in the 519), and wasn’t impressed with it. The details from the 3sixteen aesthetic included a chambray lining and perhaps the removal of the belt for a cleaner silhouette. The leather appeared very matte, and I was pretty content with my 519 purchase earlier that year.

A few months ago 3sixteen revealed that they were collaborating with Schott NYC for the second time. I was pretty surprised myself as I thought last year’s was a one time only thing. I found news of this information on 3sixteen’s instagram with a closeup shot of a brass button and dark brown leather. Again this year, Milo Ventimiglia modeled the jacket, and 3sixteen revealed in that post that Horween leather was used in this year’s collaboration. I was drawn towards the detail that this leather was “custom tanned” for this collaboration and had a “sugary surface” that would chip off with time. Y’all know that I love things that “get better with age”.

The price this year was at a premium of $1100 USD instead of the previous year’s $950. The extra 150$ was likely due to adding in another company, Horween leather, a term that most fanboys, including myself, would drool to.  The snap cap this year was still produced by Good Art HLYWD, but in an aged brass. Because this leather was custom tanned, no one knew anything how it would age/patina!

I was drawn to this year’s version because the piece was in a dark brown, and would actually develop a patina instead of last year’s black, which essentially stays black. I love that aged brass hardware this year was used instead of black, which complimented the dark brown leather.

I took attention to what retailers were stocking this piece on the day of release, December 20th, and prepared my game plan. I had called Schott NYC LA in Los Angeles a few days earlier asking about the anticipated release. Dandee, one of the store co-managers, told me that they were receiving only one of each size from S-XL and was emphasized by Jason Schott and 3sixteen that no phone orders or reservations this year would be taken and for it. The jackets were to be sold in store only starting at 11AM PST on Dec 20th.

From my past interactions, the Schott NYC LA team has great customer service, they are chill dudes that are down to earth, and they don’t pressure you to buy anything if you visit their store. My girlfriend and I had long beforehand planned a roadtrip to Sequoia National Park on the same day, but I told her that I really wanted to pick this limited piece up.

I arrived at Schott NYC on La Brea at about 10:50am on 12/20 Wednesday. The two employees were already inside, but the outer gates were still locked. At 11:00am, they opened the security gates and welcomed me in. Five of the Perfectos were hanging on the front rack – one of each from a size XS, S, M, L, and XL. I was pretty confident that M was my size, tried it on. The phones were already ringing non-stop about the jacket. One phone call I overhead was a guy wanting to buy the jacket, but wouldn’t be able to pick it up in person for 2 weeks. Pretty shady stuff haha. The brass snap button was initially wrapped in one of the hand warmer zipped pockets, and the guys recommended I place it on the jacket so I wouldn’t lose it. A couple minutes later, I walked out with a new jacket.

The overwhelming leather scent is hard to describe. It’s not a typical leather smell I’m familiar with.  It’s neither pleasant nor unpleasant… it just smells of “Horween leather”. It wasn’t until a few days later when I returned from Sequoia National Park that I was able to really try on the jacket. It was super heavyweight and stiff, arms and body length a bit longer than my 519. I felt that the aged brass really complimented the dark brown color well.

In my attempt to break the jacket in, I wore it whenever I was in my room. The arm and body creases started to form, and once that happened, the sleeve and body length became perfect. The major differences from the Schott 519 in Pebbled Cowhide is that it’s a heavier weight, no belt (I like this because the belt often flailed around) and epaulets, a deep pistol pocket (great for sunglasses and my phone), and a lightweight, breathable chambray lining instead of quilted polyfill.

It’s been just under 4 weeks since I purchased this jacket, and it has become much softer and cozier. The leather has lightened up in some areas such as the elbows and back. I look forward to how the unique leather will age!

May 2018 Update

After 5 months or so, the Perfecto still has a strong smell to it after purposely leaving it in the backseat of my car for several weeks.

Two major areas on the jacket have changed colors – the elbows and the near front placket.

The elbows have lightened up from a dark brown to a lighter brown from abrasion on surfaces. This will likely be the color the jacket will lighten up to after many more years of wear.

Oddly, areas on the front placket and especially the collar have become polychromatic when viewed in direct lighting. At first, the rainbow sheen appeared around the collar so I thought it was from my sunscreen. However, shortly after the irregularity spread further down the placket in random areas. I think the cause of this color change is the pigment breaking down from age. It’s not very noticable unless viewed in direct lighting from the sun. Also, the color change doesn’t seem to be accelerated by sunlight/UV light as they appear irregularly on the jacket.

 

As the weather warms up in Southern California towards late spring and the start of summer, I find myself not wearing the jacket as much.